http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/ Posts for uk.diy Sat, 20 Sep 2008 10:35:34 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/ http://www.nnseek.com/img/64.png 64 64 NNSeek http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/ceiling_crack_advice_please_183562907t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/ceiling_crack_advice_please_183562907t.html We have a ceiling with a smooth emulsion finish, unfortunately long
cracks appear in the course of every few years - one along the line of a
plasterboard joint and two others that are not in line with the
plasterboards.

I have repaired them with a d-i-y filler (made up polyfilla or similar)
in the past but have decided to do something that will hopefully be a
bit more permanent this time.

I have raked the cracks out - the depth appears to be around 10mm and
was wondering about applying a gap filling adhesive (No more nails?) in
the apex of the crack and finishing it off with either a light weight
sandable filler which I imagine will give the finish most likely to
blend in once painted or possibly caulk which I understand has the
benefit of being slightly flexible but may not blend in as well as the
sandable filler.

I would be grateful for any suggestions or comments.

--
Robert

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]]> Sat, 20 Sep 2008 10:35:34 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/shower_pump_and_a_mira_realm_mkii_recondition_183538587t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/shower_pump_and_a_mira_realm_mkii_recondition_183538587t.html
The background is my father in law lives in a house that had been fitted
with a Mira Realm (MK II as it turned out) thermostatic shower mixer.
All vile gold plate, but thats irrelevant.

He also managed to get his softener blocked up..well the water company
did that by allowing a load of silt into it, and I bypassed it to get
the water working, and told him to get it fixed. He didn't know he had
one..and didnt anyway. The net result being the mixer valve got a bit
scaled up, and eventually wouldn't turn off, the handle just went round
and round.

Plumber took it off and told him he needed a new one, so he brought it
to me and said 'how much are these, the bugger is quoting close to
£500." which is indeed roughly what these beasts cost.

He left it with me and I
stripped it as far a I could, and descaled it wit some vicious bog
descaler. And ascertained that it probably needed new parts, and
eventually found a site online that did various parts, of which the key
elements were what was called a 'head assembly'.

When te parst arrived, they looked rght, but I couldn't see how to get
teh old part out..and scratched my head and arse a bit, before realising
that the front plate - that's the nit marked 'hot' 'tepid' 'cold'
actually just pulled off on an O-rin seal - slide fit!, revealing a
large nut that stuck out from the gold body..well tat wouldn't come off,
even after being ovened and cooled sharply, and I was on the point of
giving up when I ran my finger idly over the thread of the new
part..surely some mistake..surely..they hadn't..oh yes they bloody well
had..for no apparent reason they had cut that lot with a LEFT HAND thread.

IT came right out with a sharp jerk once the correct direction was
established..well after that it was all pretty much plain sailing, so if
you have one of these and it wont turn off and just goes round and round
- or has seized up (that was the start of the problem: There's a sort of
dog clutch inside that stops the tap washer part going round when the
handle is turned: it goes in and out and also adjusts via a wax capsule,
the temperature mixer part: it had jammed and been 'wellied' and the dog
clutch had simply worn away..) then all you actually have to do is
remove the handle - thats just a sliding fit on splines, gear puller is
best, but persuading with a drift down the center if you remove the
ceramic 'Mira Cheltenham' button works as well..remove the front cover -
that just pulls off - and unscrew the head assembly BACKWARDS and screw
the new part in..


Anyway I got it all installed and turned on all the taps that had been
turned off..whoever plumbed that place liked his lock valves. There
isn't a it of pipe but what has two valves - one at each end of it, it
seems..and tried the shower.

Nuddink.

My FIL said 'the pump should be coming on."

Back to airing cupboard, there's the pump. No light on it.

Turned on the switch, also by the same process magically firing up the
mast head amp that seemed to be plugged into the same double adapter -
thats the second one of those I have fund. They couldn't get TVs working
so installed two new aerials instead..sigh..(shudder)..yes FIL is the
man who bought a ton of gravel spread very thing for 300 quid..to repair
the drive, and has just had solar panels installed that he claims will
halve his £2500 heating bill (because the nice salesman said so),
whereas in fact the brochure claims that at best, they will save him
energy to the tune of £150..

Anyway, that got the light on the Aqualisa pump working, but when the
shower came on, there was a loud humming noise for two seconds, then
nothing.

I suspect the pump is jammed with scale, not having been used for
months..does anyone know if there is e.g. a nut you can turn to free it
up, like on a CH pump? or if not how much a replacement double pump (I
assume that's what it is: 4 big pipes going in) will cost?

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]]> Sat, 20 Sep 2008 08:53:02 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/toilet_seat_sorted_183512475t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/toilet_seat_sorted_183512475t.html won't stay up!

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l284/davidlang_photos/toiletseat.jpg

Ingenious - no idea who makes them though....


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Posted In: uk.diy

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]]> Sat, 20 Sep 2008 06:41:44 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/oh_marvellous_183511451t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/oh_marvellous_183511451t.html floor ie I've just cut along the bottom of the torus skirting in the hall to
fit the laminate under,granted I had to make quite a few cuts but its saved
the hassle of removing the skirting and putting it back on.

Yaaaaaaaay! alas it means I have to take the opposite skirting off to have
it fit underneath. :-(

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]]> Sat, 20 Sep 2008 06:35:06 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/f1_coat_jacket_shirt_gucci_bag_lv_bag_dior_fendi_paypal_183484571t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/f1_coat_jacket_shirt_gucci_bag_lv_bag_dior_fendi_paypal_183484571t.html www.honest-shop.cn )
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Evisu shoes
Fendi shoes (paypal payment)(www.honest-shop.cn )
Gucci shoes
Hogan shoes (paypal payment)(www.honest-shop.cn )
Lv shoes
Prada shoes (paypal payment)(www.honest-shop.cn )
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]]> Sat, 20 Sep 2008 02:54:27 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/hcl_concentrqtion_to_clean_cement_mixer_183483035t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/hcl_concentrqtion_to_clean_cement_mixer_183483035t.html ashamed to say that after my block making project, my cement mixer is
now 30kg heavier, and a lot smaller inside, with concrete.
I'm going to buy some HCl from a local supplier, but don't really know
what to ask for.
What is reasonable safe to use with caution, and a good read of the
COSSH documents, but powerful enough to corrode the unwanted
concrete. I thought maybe 1litre of 34%% HCl, 66%% water. Is that
anything like reasonable. And is that even the correct terminolagy.
Should I be asking for a 0.3molar solution?

I have a few ideas about safety, but aany advice on that too would be
most welcome.

Thanks

Tony

ps I'll put a video up on youtube on how I got on with making the
exposed aggregate finished concrete blocks as soon as I get aroudn to
splicing it all together. Not a job for a sunny day like this!

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]]> Sat, 20 Sep 2008 02:43:11 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/pipe_vibration_after_upstairs_toilet_flush_183470235t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/pipe_vibration_after_upstairs_toilet_flush_183470235t.html vibration noise in the pipes. Any ideas on what it could be.

Thanks

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]]> Sat, 20 Sep 2008 01:31:58 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/island_hoods_183413403t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/island_hoods_183413403t.html shiny induction hob on a peninsular. There is therefore no wall to
put an extractor fan on, so as part of the work we ran 110mm soil pipe
between the joists and have a hole coming down in the ceiling over the
hob position. I made sure there was lots of battens next to the hole
for hanging an island hood.

The hood is a Baumatic ISL5SS. Very good value, but that's about its
only redeeming point. It's not very well made, the instructions are
dire, some of the techniques in the method are daft (have you tried
screwing a poor quality self tapper into a too-small hole in 2mm steel
plate, with the hole 10mm from the ceiling?) Tip: self-tap the hole
BEFORE mouting the ceiling plate.

The instructions tell you how to calculate the length of angle iron
needed to hang down. All very simple stuff, except we discovered
while doing the building work our ceilings are only 230cm, so about
10cm short of normal.
To achieve the 75cm over the worktop that I want is impossible using
the method in the instructions.
Using the method in the instructions it would be just 45cm off the
worktop!

Using a different method of assembly, the highest I can get the thing
off the worktop is about 64cm which still seems too low to me.

The limiting factor is the stainless steel canopies that are 60cm long
and have to put on in two stages, making a stepped look. My other
half reckons the 2 stage canopy will look ugly, and I think she might
be right.

I've looked at others and none seem to go as short as I need, so I
can't even send it back and get something else.

I think my only solution is to drill holes in one canopy and just use
the one canopy. This way I can get about 70cm off the worktop AND I
wont get the 2 stage ugly step. If I need to go shorter I will need
to cut down the thin metal canopy, which is specialist since its
stainless steel.

Has anyone fitted this hood (or the Caple/Electrolux identical models)
and had problems?

Painters10

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]]> Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:54:41 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/o_rings_183409051t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/o_rings_183409051t.html our kitchen tap. Went to a very good old fashioned iron mongers but they
did not have the right diameter and rubber thickness. I also tried 2
plumbers merchants who came up with the same. One did suggest that if I
can get a manufacturers name, he can try ordering some for me. Is there
any national company that I can try to get some?

Dave

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]]> Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:32:13 PDT http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/sky_boxes_183398811t.html http://www.nnseek.com/e/uk.diy/sky_boxes_183398811t.html buy and plug in sky box has on it. This is not the one that you pay £17
and upwards per month, but I can't seem to find anything about the
channel info. Can anyone tell me or point me in the right direction
before my wife makes a complete balls up of communications in this house?

Dave

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]]> Fri, 19 Sep 2008 13:28:41 PDT