When I switched on my (Karcher KB 9030) pressure washer for the first
time this year there was no pressure and water was gushing out of the
casing. I opened it up and found that the plastic elbow (connecting the
high pressure hose to the compressor) was cracked. So I Googled the part
number, ordered a new part, fitted it. Easy.

I guess the frost must have got to it.

Then after a few minutes, use another leak started, identical to the
first, but on the inlet side this time. No problem it was only a fine
spray and it didn't seem to have any effect on the performance.

Then after about half-an-hour's use bugger me it developed yet another
leak. This time it's a fairly major leak where the second inlet elbow
joins onto the compressor.

Photo:
http://thedowerhouse.com/pics/leak1.jpg

Slightly better close-up of leak 3:
http://thedowerhouse.com/pics/leak2.jpg

The result of the leak is that when the outlet is closed the motor
starts and stops about once a second, and water leaks out of the casing.
When the outlet is open everything seems to work fine.

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On May 14, 12:50 pm, Zakko wrote:

Any shoe repair shop will fix it for less than you think and their
product will work for sure. Don't waste time experimenting when the
pros have a sure thing. HTH

Joe

I bought a lidl pressure washer last year, the Lavorwash 160. Recently
in use, the bayonet end snapped off which connects the gun to the lance
- firing the lance across my drive.

The item was described as guaranteed for three years, so I tried to get
Lidl to honour the guarantee - they refused, suggesting that only the
main unit was covered. They did though offer a £40 refund, if I
returned the entire unit.

As the unit was basically a pretty good one for the price, I decided to
see if there were some way to repair it. The actual coupling is solid
brass, but the lance is retained by a rather delicate plastic bayonet
part of completely inadequate design. To make it even worse, the play
within the bayonet was such that the brass parts were only partially
engaged and much of the strain being taken by the plastic sleeve of the
bayonet - basically the last inch of the plastic snapped off leaving it
with nothing to hold the lance into the gun against the pressure.

I have 3 roller shutters over our shop windows.
2 of them don't fully open, they jam about 6 inch short, is this something I
should be able to fix or shall I get somebody in?

Due to a recnt success in the same field I have been asked to replace an old
fashioned fuse box with a consumer unit. The wiring is pvc covered and in
good condition.

The wires are presently coming out of the wall into the back of the fuse box
which is mounted in the garage. There is no way there is enough slack in
them to go straight into the new unit. Would the right thing to do be to
bring them into junction boxes and extend new wire from there into the
consumer unit?

TIA

I need to break into a 20mm galvanised conduit system (internal for alarm
system)but I am unable to remove the existing conduit to rethread the cut
ends,I recall seeing a few years ago adaptors which where knocked on the cut
end of the conduit and had a female 20mm thread on the opposite side.
Does any reader know if these are still available ,a search on Google as
failed to find any.
Thanks

Ok can someone help narrow down the problem for me pls???

After filling the bath the Auto air vent began to leak/spit water.
Once allowing the system to cool down and drying it(no water
internally and about a 5cm circle on the worktop) the system locked
out.
I reset the overheat reset button and then the system began normal
function without locking out but still bleeds water from the auto
vent.
I dont have a multimeter until tomorrow so I cant check the PCB or
other functions via the flowchart and diagnostics.

Is the autoairvent knackered??

Pressure relief valve works a-okay.

Many thanks in advance
Carl

We have a small garden shed that holds various bits and pieces. When I
went in there to get the lawn mower out, I noticed that the roofing felt
had split at the apex and I could see light coming through. I have been
down to my local merchants expecting to be able to buy a narrow roll of
felt to tack on over the split roof, but I was only offered some
rubberized paint on, or another that was like a thick mastic. The
alternative would be to buy a wide roll of felt (about 3 foot wide) and
cut it to size and tack it on.

What would be the best to use of the three.

Dave