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Author: John StumblesJohn Stumbles
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:41
On Fri, 26 Jan 2007 10:07:18 -0800, J. wrote:
> Now I can often smell gas that the outlet is closer to my window even
> on the rare times my window is actually open due to the cold weather,
> usually when I'm cooking.
Well, like they say, if you smell gas call Transco (or whoever they call
themselves these days) on 0800 111 999. Even if it's not an unburnt gas
escape I'm pretty sure they have powers to stop an appliance that's
discharging flue gases into a living space.
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Author: WeatherlawyerWeatherlawyer
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:26
I hesitate to describe it as a Stanley Knife as it is more like the old
fashioned pen knife of my youth. Only a couple of quid with a set of
spare blades too.
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Author: WeatherlawyerWeatherlawyer
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:19
J. wrote:
> Recently my neighbour downstairs has been renovating their flat and put
> up a new vent for their boiler. You may see the picture here:
>
> http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/3894/gasflueproximitytm2.jpg
>
> As you can see, the vent (white pipe) is quite close to my window which
> opens downwards. When I open the kitchen window, I can smell unburnt
> fuel in it, as well as see the vapour blow into my flat.
>
> I do not know who else to contact and desperately need some advice.
Can you reach the opening of the pipe with an hose pipe?
If so a bloody wet patch in his house might make a sudden appearance
overnight. Don't get caught of course so be a little secretive.
If that fails to move the sod, a quick spray with cavity foam or
something of that sort should solve it.
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Author: LobsterLobster
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:19
butterfly wrote:
> Have been advised by building control that I need to do this. The frame
> is woodgrain with K.glass (not sure if this means it is double glazed
> or not). Thanks in advance.
Dunno. But if I may hijack your thread... is it possible to retro fit
them on a (fitted) uPVC window? (Got a tenant with condensation
problems and am mulling over how best to resolve it).
David
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Author: eastendereastender
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:17
> Hi, I'm just putting in a wooden laminate floor over concrete (ground
> floor) and was a concerned about a damp proof membrane. I've taped a
> sheet of plastic to the concrete for a day or two and there is some
> rising damp. I've been told by separate sources that it's fine, and I
> can just use a standard plastic vapour barrier between the concrete and
> the laminate, and that it's not fine, and I need to coat the floor in
> polyurethene three times before laying the vapour barrier. If anyone
> could shed any light I'd most appreciate it! Thank you. Sam
>
We had the same issue - laminate on concrete gound floor in a Victorian
house - someone recommended a special underlay but sorry I can't remember
its name - it's blue with ripples on one side and must go a certain side up
and taped together with special tape. The people who put down the laminate
said they wouldn't guarantee it though but two years on and all seems fine
but of course we can't see what's lurking underneath. But the laminate is
so cheap it hardly matters.
E.
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Author: LobsterLobster
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:12
Andy Hall wrote:
> I had a similar situation with my WDSL antenna - a flat plate made by
> Alvarion on a pole on the chimney.
Whassat then - wifi? What does it do for you?
David
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Author: radenraden
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:11
In message delme.sda.co.uk>, Tony Bryer
delme.sda.co.uk> writes
>On Thu, 25 Jan 2007 15:29:53 +0000 (GMT) Dave Plowman (News) wrote :
>> There used to be half a dozen such shops within reasonable distance
>> of here. Now only Maplin. I can only assume electronics as a hobby
>> ain't what it once was.
>
>Oh yes, there was one in Hibernia Road, Hounslow run by an older man
>that was a real treasure house. G.W.Smith had some rather shabby shops
>in Soho that sold all sorts of interesting stuff. And when I first had
>a car I would go down to Electrocomponents (?) at Englefield Green.
>
>But no more. I guess it is just economics - as a child I would give my
>father a few pence from my pocket money to go and buy another couple of
>Meccano pieces - he worked just doors...
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Author: Doctor DrivelDoctor Drivel
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:09
"Dave Plowman (News)" davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4eab5c2184dave@davenoise.co.uk...
>> "Dave Plowman (News)" davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:4eab2b92d6dave@davenoise.co.uk...
>>> Do the prices vary much seasonally? I'm going to replace my working one
>>> this year and wondered if there's much difference in, say, the summer.
>
>> Get British Gas.
>>
>> You are clearly not competent to install
>> such equipment. This one could
>> blow up the street.
>
> Then
You are clearly an effing plantpot. You "must" get British Gas, for the
safety of the public at large.
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Author: radenraden
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:02
>
>
>On Jan 25, 9:56 pm, raden kateda.org> wrote:
>>
>>>Probably the easiest way would be to make the pilot valve wiring drive both
>>>gas valves simultaneously - and trust to a lot of luck.
I really can't believe that Ed said that
>>>And a sympathetic insurance company if not
>>
>> --
>> geoff
>
>..or put a switch inbetween and switch the main gas on after the pilot
>has lit.
>
... Over riding safety features which exist for a very good reason
Not a very safe or sensible way to go
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Author: WeatherlawyerWeatherlawyer
Date: Jan 26, 2007 12:00
Stuart Noble wrote:
> nightjar
>>> Your big problem is that with internal doors the finish is mere
>>> cosmetics and you will be taking most of the solid timber off it when
>>> you trim it. That means you have to chisel the hardboard/ply/veneer off
>>> the infill timber of the bottom rail and replace it in the skin of the
>>> door.
>>
>> He is fitting a pine glazed door, not a panel door. I've yet to see one of
>> those that hasn't got solid timber rails and stiles, even when bought from
>> the sheds.
>>
>> ....
>>> Ignore the punter who suggested a router ...
>>
>> I have the advantage of actually having had to do the same job and a router ...
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