http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlvUepMa31o

JF

we want to use an Antenna to transmit and receive signal. The Block
Diagram of our Demo can be found on the following link:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Hector.BIT/Technic#5242928559321154466
So, maybe a Switch or MUX is needed. Any suggestions? Thanks in
advance.
In this system, the frequency of carrier is from 1MHz to 10MHz. The
transmit power is very low but the voltage is approximately 100v by
resonance.

I would like to start with Atmel AVR's, so I need some cheap development
board. Something like this:
http://www.futurlec.com/ATMEGA8535_Educational_Board.shtml, max 100 USD.

Do you have any recomendation?

Not really the right newsgroup but since your family!

I was cooling my computer using oil and a refigerator compressor I tore out
of an old mini-refigerator I had back from school.

It was working well keeping my computer's temp at least 10 degree's or more
cooler(initially it would be at 10-15 degree's celsius and ramp up to about
30-35. Without the cooling it runs about 45-50(with oil) which is what it
runs with just air cooling.

Anyways what happaned was the compressor froze the water(Which is pumped
through the oil using copper tubing) because the pump stopped
working(basically... it's pumping at it's peak height). I didn't realize it
was froze so I tried lifting the ice carriage thingy(basically the expander
that actually get's cold in the fridge) and it broke releasing the gas(maybe
I shouldn't say that... will I be fined or have to pay some type of carbon
credits? Hopefully I won't get arrested).

Since the computer is running a bit too hot I want to salvage the idea. (bad
enough it's in oil which is distributed the heat almost completely among all
the components)

gdfdgfgdf

Hi,

We're in the process of buying a cabin up in Truckee, a 3-4 hour drive
from home. That's serious snow territory, so I was figuring we could
set up a remote-access home automation system. We'd like to monitor a
few in/out temperatures, control the thermostat, maybe some lights,
and a couple of cams would be cool. Decent DSL is apparently
available.

Any advice/recommendations/warnings?

Truckee very often has the record low city temperature in the
contiguous USA, especially in the summer. They can have frost any day
of the year. Tomorrow's prediction is 85F high, 34 low. Sounds like a
good candidate for some sort of heat storage system.

John

To All,

I have a perplexing question on some plain incandescent light bulbs.

I bought a package of four ordinary Sylvania 25 Watt 120 volt
candelabra light bulbs to act as current limiters in a HVDC supply.
The manufacturer's code is 25B10C/BL/4PK.

Here's a picture:

http://www.servicelighting.com/catpics/sylvania/13452.jpg

After the purchase, I opened the package to check the filament
resistance. All four bulbs were open!

I applied 120VAC and each bulb lit normally. Afterwards, each bulb
read about 46 ohms on a DVM.

The next day, three of the four bulbs were open. After applying
120VAC again, they all read about 46 ohms.

I examined the bulbs carefully under a microscope. Everything seems
normal. The crimps at the filament look normal. The welds on the
lead wires seem fine.

I removed the base from one of the bulbs to check if anything
strange was inside. There was nothing. The wires go straight into
the bulb.

Not that I need a replacement component for this number at this time
how ever, we're getting ready to produce units based from a prototype
we have that uses this component and would like an alternate replacement
if needed.

The reason I ask this is due to one of these failing with out any
obvious reason.
The prototype and a few dups at our local sight have been in use for
some time now and just as we get the word from many of our other
locations that they would like to also use this, we have a unit fail
with a shorted LM1875T.

This component is in a bridge configuration with another and there
seems to be no evidence of operational stress on the failed component.

The Vcc and -Vee came down to ~ 5 ohm short. Other components are on
this same rail including the other LM1875T with no damage or evidence
of stress.
Each output has a 25 ohm high wattage R in line that drives a coil
using a bipolar supply of +/-15V. We don't operate this circuit at
the max wattage of the device but just have the R's in place for shorts
and lowering the Q response on the coil..

Hello,
I am looking for a hardware / OS platform that will allow me to
develop a digital clock, digital frame and digital thermostat. I am a
professional programer but I am not up for writing drivers for this
project. I want something that gives me basic functionality and
allows me to develop my application on top. Is there a cheap way to
do this with couple of hundered dollars? I can consider linux
solution or Windows CE .Net. Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

I use my bike a lot and I'd be a lot more comfortable if it had lights
instead of only reflectors. So I went on a google, and this is one hit:
http://www.b2cshop24.com/en/19-led-4-mode-bike-bicycle-headlamp-torch-headlight-sil...

But, FIVE BUCKS? For a headlight? How would I find out if they're
worthwhile, without plunking down the five plus S&H - and plus, just
scroll down a little and the first one in the table includes a taillight,
for THREE SEVENTY_NINE!!!!!?????!!!

Is this really possible with today's LED technology? Or would they
last about a month before the LEDs cook themselves?

Thanks,
Rich