On Thu, 29 Mar 2007 11:49:30 -0500, Pan Ohco hotmail.com> wrote:

On Wed, 28 Mar 2007 03:50:49 -0400, kdsexton@no-spamsc.rr.com wrote:

That could have been Rootone, or one of the other brands of root
stimulators.

I've also been meaning to ask- my grandfather did a lot of grafting,
and I would watch him. He used to dip the end of the part he was
grafting into some white powdery stuff he got at the nursery. This
was in the early 1960's. He told me what it was, but of course, I
can't remember. He used this white powder to graft roses, also, and
made beautiful varigated carnations with the same method. Anyone have
any idea what the substance was?

Thanks,

Karen

On Mon, 26 Mar 2007 09:50:06 -0500, Pan Ohco hotmail.com> wrote:

Ok- thanks.

KS

g'day karen,

having 'a' & 'b' trees not totally necessary as all trees will bare
male and female flowers at some stage of their fruiting cycle, having
the 2 of certain varities extends your fruiting season ie.,. when the
'a' tree has its female flowers the 'b' tree has its male flowers and
visa verca.

some varieties don't need 'a' or 'b' ever.

the only thing with a seedling tree is how long before it fruits could
take up to 14 years maybe? but the other side and i avhe heard both
stories you have no guarantee that the tree will fruit to form or even
fruit at all, or at best it may give very poor quality fruit.

if yo realy like avacado's and most of us do the best advice is go buy
a grafted tree and if you are short on garden space seek a variety
where 'a' & 'b' plays no part, or just buy one or the other you will
get fruit. grafted trees as i know it fruit with in 5 to 7 years i had
one fruit in 3 years that may be variety specific?

On Thu, 22 Mar 2007 03:17:28 -0400, kdsexton@no-spamsc.rr.com wrote:

snipped
With peace and brightest of blessings,

It's not as simple as male and female; it's A and B types, and sometimes
people will say that doesn't matter. Here are a couple of places to look for
info to get you started. Lots more if you look on Google.

http://www.californiaavocadosociety.org/pages/growing/growing.html
http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/avocado.html

This is what the CRFG (California Rare Fruit Growers) Fact Sheet about
Avocadoes says:
"Flowers: Avocado flowers appear in January - March before the first
seasonal growth, in terminal panicles of 200...

On 21 Mar 2007 09:42:06 GMT, Kay Lancaster hub.fern.com> wrote:

On 21 Mar 2007 09:42:06 GMT, Kay Lancaster hub.fern.com> wrote:

Plenty of reputable places... but it would really be useful to you, I
suspect, to get lists of species and cultivars suitable for your area.
I just took a quick look at the gardening section of the Clemson
extension website... lots of fruit tree suggestions for SC, but no
cherries... which strongly suggests to me that your success with
Raniers would be, um, limited. You'll also need a second cherry cultivar
to cross-pollinate Raniers... off hand, Bing and Lapin are what I
recall.

A couple of sites for you:
http://hgic.clemson.edu/
http://davesgarden.com/gwd/

1. Blueberries; Yes two different cultivars helps. Also you mentioned
South Carolina, unless you are very upstate, you will need either
rabbiteyes (type) or southern highbush. The northern highbush just
does not do much in the higher USDA zones. All blueberries need an
acidic soil pH (5.5 -5.5) Most Georgia and South Carolina soils are
naturally acid, but yours has probably been limed. Take a soil sample
to you extension agent. The liquid iron sulfate (soil acidifier) sold
at most nurseries is the quickest and easiest way to lower pH.

2. Raspberries and blackberries do not naturally cross, But
raspberries do vector diseases that take out blackberries. Not a good
idea to plant the close together.

3. Cherries are difficult in this part of the country. They are also
very slow growing. It will be quite a few years before you find out
what your seedlings will do.

4. The same iron sulfate as on the blueberries