Please don't forget our local bee auction. For details please see
www.wsbka.org.uyk

This should be of interest to homebrewers, winemakers, and mead-makers
(and therefore many bee-keepers, too). I'm happy to announce that our
'Grow-Hops' group, which originated as a 'Yahoo Group' and therefore
functions primarily as a 'mail-list', is now expanding to add our own
private-domain website -- http://www.grow-hops.com -- complete with
'Forums' to include 'general homebrewing', and 'winemaking' because of
common garden issues, and 'bee-keeping' because of mead, and bees are
good for the garden, too.

This should be good news to those of you who were interested in our
narrowly-focused topics about homebrewer-gardening: for growing hops,
barley, and brewing-herbs, but did not want to join us because you do
not care for Yahoo and/or mail-list type of discussions. With our own
website, we NOW offer the more typical 'Forums' (or 'bulletin-board'
type discussions) which are divided into separate subject categories.

Although we haven't really begun using our forums at our .com site yet,
this announcement coincides with with an announcement to our current
Grow-Hops Yahoo members, so I hope that we will see the start...

Hello all,

Have a request through one of the UK associations. Gentleman is
looking for a UK beekeepers who can supply him (personal) Royal Jelly.
He want pure, untreated ands non capsule form.

If anybody knows perhaps you can reply to me by email?

Regards
Steve Newport
Worthing Beekeepers Association
Worthing, West Sussex UK

Intermediate Beekeeping Lecture - May 6th
West Sussex BeeKeepers Association
Website www.wsbka.org.uk

We should all look to improve our bees and Roger Patterson will be
giving us some ideas on what to look for and how to do it, either on
our own or in a group situation. This is not a queen rearing lecture
but will concentrate on using opportunities we are regularly presented
with using modifications of standard manipulation, with no requirement
for extra equipment.

This is designed for beekeepers of all abilities who are members of
any division of WSBKA, and will take place at Pulborough Village Hall
commencing at 7.00pm.

It is hoped that as many members as possible will make a commitment to
attend, as this is being provided free of charge by the Association.

My 3# hive package fell apart when I installed the thing. The sugar
water dropped out and crushed a bunch of bees. I couldn't figure out
what to do. Most of the 10,000 bees were on that can of sugar water.
So, I waited until next weekend adding sugar water daily.

The next Saturday, I fished out the can and shook some of the bees off
of it. About half had left already. I set the can on the hive top
cover in hopes they would find their way back. We had a cold snap and
I'm lost a few thousand bees because they didn't come back in. During
this procedure, I found the queen cage. It had a metal strip on it
and the queen was still trapped. I removed the strip and put her back
in thinking she'd get out by chewing through the candy plug.

On the 3rd weekend, I removed several of the frames covered in honey
comb and stored sugar water (I think). There were NO brood. So I
looked for the queen cage and she was STILL in there. The plug was
untouched. I didn't have anything to pick at the candy plug with so i
used my hive tool to pull back the screen. MISTAKE. The queen
immediately FLEW out and UP. She circled in front of me and acted as
if she might land and then circled behind me and I lost track of her.

Q: What are the chances she will find her way back to the hive?

Your Fortune for the Day!!!
Hi,

To know what it is?

Visit the website below and be cool !!!

I am new to beekeeping, and am considering taking over a bee-yard that was
abandoned 2 years ago. There was AFB on that site at the time. The hives
that were infected were aparently destroyed (doused with diesel, sealed, and
burned). I know the AFB spore can survive 80 years or more.

I do not intend to use any used equipment, so I think I am ok on that front.
What about the site itself? Does the spore persist in the soil? If so, is
there anything that can be sprayed on the grounds of the bee yard to kill
the spore? Liike hydrogen peroxide solution or somethiing? Preferably
something that will kill the spore, break down, and not persist to harm
future bees.

Thanks all.
GP.

Last year was my first keeping a hive, and unfortunately, my mentor
moved almost as soon as I got set up, so I've been on my own fumbling
around. I have other liverstock, but seem to know less about what to
do with the bees then anything else.

I put two deep boxes on them last year, and they filled it, and I
think I've managed to see them thru the winter.

Now, what do I do?

What do I look for to tell if they're strong enough to split, and if
they're not, how do I go about removing the second box?

Any good book recommendations on splitting?

thanks,
tom

Does anyone have recommendations for making your own pollen patties?

Ratio of: Brewer's yeast, soy flour and dried milk?

Hi everybody,
we are promoting beekeeping in our rural development projects of
India. Most of our locations are near forest areas. We are facing
severe problem with lizards. When the families are ot for their wage
or farm work lizards eat out the bees and number of bees reduces. Any
solution of this problem? Will be of great help.
Regards,
Sachin