I'm starting to design plans to build a mission style coffee table out
of qtr sawn white oak with flake.

I'd like to capture as many design elements from the classic mission
style era as possible. One of them is the characteristic spindles in
the ends.

I see two different styles:

Square spindles:
http://www.furnitureontheweb.com/NoFrame/items_direct/003266nf.html?source=otw-y...

Slat spindles:
http://www.furnitureontheweb.com/noframe/items/008644nf.html

Is one more representative of true Stickley design? Are there any
Stickly guidelines for slat width vs. spacing or just I just go with
whatever my preferance is?

I'd also like to get that classical mission style color that contrasts
the "tiger" oak. Any suggestions on a stain (water, oil, or dye) that
works particularly well for creating a mission style finish. I
probably won't be able to fume it in ammonia.

Here's a representative sample of the end finish I'd like to achive:

http://www.hilestudio.com/prodpage/occtable/hs4472.html

"henny" net.com> wrote in message
news:bmkjm25g31srs6lb4tmarfe6lp2h6d8ol6@4ax.com...

On Nov 26, 1:06 pm, henny net.com> wrote:

This is more 'true' Stickley:
http://tinyurl.com/y5gdod
The smaller, square spindles. But, they also do the slats. The older
the examples you find, the more you'll see square spindles. I think
they look better. BUT... that's just me.
What do YOU like?

On Nov 26, 8:20 pm, "Lowell Holmes" verizon.net> wrote:

Speaking of which:
After these, follow the bouncing ball... and find your way around all
of the projects Greene & Greene ever built/designed.

I use analine dye, Behlens Solar-lux. Mix "Golden Oak," "Hickory," and
"Van Dyke Brown" dyes until you get the color you want, keeping in mind that
you can darken it with multiple coats of dye (testing on cut-offs planed or
sanded same as actual pieces) and then apply with a rag, recoating until the
color is what I want. Finish with multiple coats of shellac (you can add
dye to the shellac to make the color slightly different). You can also
check out the mission-style ottoman David Marks did on diytv.com. He uses
powdered analine dye.
"henny" net.com> wrote in message
news:bmkjm25g31srs6lb4tmarfe6lp2h6d8ol6@4ax.com...

I tell ya, I've been wrestling with qs white oak finishing for a good 3 years now.
Tried just about everything, dyes, stains, glazes, topcoats, etc. For starters, I don't
trust pictures for correct color because the lighting will affect it. Take a look at the
kitchen I'm building for swmbo, I have pics here with 3 different sources of light,
and the panel looks different in each one (panel1, panel2, dishwasher2):
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y168/skidmark316/kitchen/

By the way, I have made a small qs oak coffe table a couple of years ago:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6zvlk/id10.html

Anyway, for your project, try this:

dye with lee valley fumed light oak aniline dye
seal with garnet shellac
stain with 1/3 asphaltum, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 mineral spirits
seal with garnet shellac
topcoat of whatever, but it must be flat! Any sheen on the topcoat
makes the oak look too 3-D and "busy". Just look at my coffee table
which has too much sheen. The flakes are too crazy.

HTH

"henny" net.com> wrote in message news:bmkjm25g31srs6lb4tmarfe6lp2h6d8ol6@4ax.com...

I've used aniline dyes before and they tend to fade over time. It's
probably not an issue unless the table has objects on it most of the
time. If it does then the area where the objects are will stay darker
over time. When you remove the objects you'll end up with an
inconsistent color. (ex: humidor on top of the table)

I'd really like to fume the table using industrial ammonia. I know
it's nasty stuff but I'd like to give it a try.

Don't laugh but I'm thinking of using my pickup truck bed with canopy
top as the fuming chamber once the table is done. Then I'll use
linseed oil and probably a satin oil for the top for added protection.

P.S. No, I don't plan to drive the truck while the fuming process is
taking place!!

Am I crazy or will this work?? Has anyone fumed white oak before?? Any
tip or techniques?? I did read the Fine Woodworking article from isssue
126.

Mark Howell wrote:

Here's a link to an article with tons of useful info on Mission
finishes...
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/mission_oak.htm

Thanks for all the replies.

I really like the thought of using household ammonia vs. trying to
track down the 25%% stuff.

Can I assume that the 5%% stuff will simply take 5X the time to fume.
If so that's no big deal. The Fine Woodworking article showing fuming
results for 0-36 hrs using the 25%% stuff. I have no problem letting my
project fume for a week or more if it'll work.

TIA. This group is still one of the highlights of Usenet.

Stephen M wrote: