Double finishing/protection necessary?
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Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: FoggyTown
Date: Nov 23, 2006 03:26

A couple of times I've seen Norm (genuflect) give a project a coat or
two of finishing oil and THEN suggest that a couple coats of
polyurethane on top of that wouldn't go amiss. Somehow that just
doesn't seem very right, but I don't know why. Of course he tends to
coat almost EVERYTHING with poly. I think he gets off on the vapors.

FoggyTown
11 Comments
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: Toller
Date: Nov 23, 2006 06:31

"FoggyTown" aol.com> wrote in message
news:1164281169.961981.186580@l12g2000cwl.googlegroups.com...
>A couple of times I've seen Norm (genuflect) give a project a coat or
> two of finishing oil and THEN suggest that a couple coats of
> polyurethane on top of that wouldn't go amiss. Somehow that just
> doesn't seem very right, but I don't know why. Of course he tends to
> coat almost EVERYTHING with poly. I think he gets off on the vapors.
>
Never watched Norm, but I do it occasionally on butternut or some other
woods that respond really well to BLO. Unfortunately BLO does almost
nothing to protect the wood, so I will put pu over the oil.
no comments
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: Leon
Date: Nov 23, 2006 06:41

"FoggyTown" aol.com> wrote in message
news:1164281169.961981.186580@l12g2000cwl.googlegroups.com...
>A couple of times I've seen Norm (genuflect) give a project a coat or
> two of finishing oil and THEN suggest that a couple coats of
> polyurethane on top of that wouldn't go amiss. Somehow that just
> doesn't seem very right, but I don't know why. Of course he tends to
> coat almost EVERYTHING with poly. I think he gets off on the vapors.
>
> FoggyTown
>

The oil is fine for a finish as long as you are very careful not to spill or
scratch the surface. The poly is stronger protection.
no comments
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: B A R R Y
Date: Nov 23, 2006 06:58

On 23 Nov 2006 03:26:10 -0800, "FoggyTown" aol.com> wrote:
>A couple of times I've seen Norm (genuflect) give a project a coat or
>two of finishing oil and THEN suggest that a couple coats of
>polyurethane on top of that wouldn't go amiss.

Quite often, oil can give a pleasing tone, with protection and some
gloss added via a film finish.

A very common, classic finish on white oak is a rubbing with BLO,
followed by sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer. Sitckley calls it
"Limestone Oak."
1 Comment
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: J. Clarke
Date: Nov 23, 2006 07:30

On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 13:50:57 +0000, Leon wrote:
> "Dave W" suscom-maine.net> wrote in message
> news:-8ednRXqsfKQO_jYnZ2dnUVZ_oadnZ2d@suscom-maine.net...
>> One of his heavy sponsors is PARKS, three guesses what they make.
>> Dave
>>
>
> Thinner, Thinner, Thinner?
>
> I suspect he is using MinWax for the finishes.

Actually Parks is a division of Zinnser, which sells several polyurethane
finishes under the "Parks" brand. But I doubt that that's why he uses it.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
no comments
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: Lew Hodgett
Date: Nov 23, 2006 08:51

B A R R Y wrote:
> A very common, classic finish on white oak is a rubbing with BLO,
> followed by sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer. Sitckley calls it
> "Limestone Oak."

I stumbled into finishing white oak with BLO.

Very happy with results.

Rather than use something like poly, lacquer or shellac, used bees wax
cut 1:1 with turps over the BLO.

IMHO, looks quite nice; however, piece is in a home occupied by adults
and will not be exposed to tough duty.

Lew
no comments
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: FoggyTown
Date: Nov 23, 2006 11:16

Lew Hodgett wrote:
> B A R R Y wrote:
>
>> A very common, classic finish on white oak is a rubbing with BLO,
>> followed by sprayed nitrocellulose lacquer. Sitckley calls it
>> "Limestone Oak."
>
> I stumbled into finishing white oak with BLO.
>
> Very happy with results.
>
> Rather than use something like poly, lacquer or shellac, used bees wax
> cut 1:1 with turps over the BLO.
>
> IMHO, looks quite nice; however, piece is in a home occupied by adults
> and will not be exposed to tough duty.
>
>
> Lew
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2 Comments
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: Don Fearn
Date: Nov 23, 2006 11:23

I think it was "FoggyTown" aol.com> who stated:
>Sorry - what's BLO? I know tung, danish, blends.

Boiled Linseed Oil

No need to be sorry . . . TLAs and ETLAs can take some getting used
to; I know, I've worked for IBM thirty years . . . .

Don
--
"What do *you* care what other people think?" --Arline Feynman
1 Comment
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: FoggyTown
Date: Nov 23, 2006 13:57

Don Fearn wrote:
> I think it was "FoggyTown" aol.com> who stated:
>
>
>>Sorry - what's BLO? I know tung, danish, blends.
>
> Boiled Linseed Oil
>
> No need to be sorry . . . TLAs and ETLAs can take some getting used
> to; I know, I've worked for IBM thirty years . . . .
>
> Don
> --

TLAs? ETLAs? IBM? :)

FoggyTown
1 Comment
Re: Double finishing/protection necessary?         


Author: Don Fearn
Date: Nov 23, 2006 15:52

I think it was "FoggyTown" aol.com> who stated:
>
>Don Fearn wrote:
>> I think it was "FoggyTown" aol.com> who stated:
>>
>>
>>>Sorry - what's BLO? I know tung, danish, blends.
>>
>> Boiled Linseed Oil
>>
>> No need to be sorry . . . TLAs and ETLAs can take some getting used
>> to; I know, I've worked for IBM thirty years . . . .
>>
>> Don
>> --
>
>TLAs? ETLAs? IBM? :)

TLA = Three Letter Acronym (like "IBM" ;^)

ETLA = Extended TLA, where three aren't enough.
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