I need to create a control panel to replace one on a full sized coin-
operated arcade video game.

The original control panel made of plywood, which is covered by veneer
on the outside, has roughly a "U" shape with a metal bracket in the
center for added support.

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Control%%20panel%%20Proj.../

The control panel pictured is 24" long, and looking at it from on
edge, the width of all three sides is 3-3/4" x 6" x 7".

Making the control panel exactly the same way as the original would be
too difficult, so I was thinking of making one by bending 1/8" sheet
metal into the same shape of the original control panel(an 11 degree
bend), and screwing wood boards to the inside to get the proper
thickness, and adding "L" shaped braces to the inside for support, but
I was wondering how others would tackle a project like this.

*** The only major difference is that the top side of the control
panel where the joysticks are located would be detachable.

I don't know if there is a plausible way to make the edges rounded
like the original, so I'll settle for sharper bends.

Looks like a Williams control panel. I've got one in the garage I'd
let you have for $20 plus shipping. You'd have to patch a few holes
but you wouldn't have to build the whole thing. Pretty sure I have
the aluminum panel that goes over it too. Otherwise you can just copy
the one you have. Glue and butt joints work fine for those. I might
use pocket screws if I made a new one unless I was worried about
authenticity.

I have several Williams control panels, and I am not looking to hack
any of them.

I'm creating a duplicate control panel *from scratch*. The only
difference is that it will be in two pieces, because I want to be able
to swap the control panel's top without having to unscrew the piano
hinge that hold the entire assembly to the machine.

Basically, my question comes down to finding the best way to get that
angle shown in the first picture.

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Control%%20pan...

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

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On Jun 9, 9:42 pm, Searcher7 mail.con2.com> wrote:

Now that I've seen your name again, I think I've done business with
you before. Probably bought/sold some PCB's or something.

Let me try to answer your question. To find the angle you can use a
sliding bevel (t-bevel) and/or a protractor. Think of the vertical
piece in your photo as having a dado as wide as the blade kerf. Lay
the piece flat on a table saw and set your blade angle. Cut your
dado. Make it wider if need be. The horizontal piece in your photo
is a rabbet cut at the same angle. Don't round off the vertical piece
until you've finished the dado and rabbet and done a test fit. Then
use a 1/4" round over on the end of that vertical piece.

Well, I know all this. I just have to figure out if I have the right
equipment.

A) Since the cuts will be along with the grain wouldn't it be
considered a "Groove", as opposed to a "Dado"?

B) Is there a blade that will allow me to make a 1/4" x 1/4" groove?
(I have a 10" Delta TS200LS Shopmaster).

C) Since the "Rabbet" will have to be a bevel cut. what is the best
way to accomplish this?(The wood will be 3/4" thick).

D) Would a hard wood like oak(which I assume I can easily get a Home
Depot) be a better choice than what the original control panel was
made of, which I think is BC plywood, or is there a better option?

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

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On Jun 9, 11:25 pm, dayvo yahoo.com> wrote:

I've decided to use 3/4" thick oak/maple boards, and connect them
lengthwise at 80/100 degrees.

The Groove/Rabbet will of course be at the same angle, as well as the
triangular piece I'll use epoxy glue to secure to the inside corner.
(See pic).

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Control%%20panel%%20Proj.../

Would a table saw get me the accuracy I need, or do I definitely need
to use my router table?

I'd appreciate pointers to any simular projects.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

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On Jun 10, 10:02 pm, Searcher7 mail.con2.com> wrote:

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 08:33:21 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
mail.con2.com> wrote:

Personally, I'd use cabinet grade baltic birch plywood, the kind with
lots of plies. It's much more stable, and possibly more durable than
solid wood for an application like yours.

Soild wood would still work well for the glue blocks. If you decide
to stay with solid wood for the panel, mind the grain direction, to
avoid a cross-grain gluing situation with the glue blocks.

Sounds good.

On Jun 14, 12:42 pm, B A R R Y yahoo.com> wrote:

I found nothing that said "cabinet grade baltic birch plywood". The
following are what I saw at Home Depot and Lowes:

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 10:56:18 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
mail.con2.com> wrote:

This MIGHT work, and is often available in 2'x4' panels if that's all
you need. I say MIGHT, because home centers use many suppliers, and
without seeing what you're looking at... Some is usable, some is
total garbage. What you want is as many plies as possible with no
internal voids. The lack of voids and many plies make for superior
joints and stability.

The stuff I'm talking about is sold by hardwood or plywood dealers
(check the Yellow Pages) and usually comes in 5' x 5' sheets. Expect
to pay ~ $80/sheet for 3/4".

Ok, I'll have to go back and do more research.

I'm thinking 1" because thicker means stronger.

I have several books on making Jigs and Fixtures, so I'll concentrate
on using the Table saw to get the correct angled Bevel cuts.

What is your take on how the original control panel was made?
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Control%%20panel%%20Proj.../

I count 5 plies. And a veneer was used to cover after the corners were
rounded.(If I decide to round the corner, I guess I could use some Oak
veneer I also saw at HD & Lowes).

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

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On Jun 15, 5:16 pm, B A R R Y yahoo.com> wrote: