I picked up a clean Jet 3HP cabinet saw for a great price. It all looks
fine and is only about 2 years old. I really do not believe it's been
worked hard.

However, I am able to grab onto the arbor flange and feel some play in the
bearings. Is this normal? On my older Delta contractor saw I could feel no
play. If I take hold and pull the arbor upwards I can feel a bit of play.
I really have no idea how much, but it's a few thousands I'm guessing. It
seems to be it should be nill.

This is way off topic. I just feel a couple of y'all know a little more than
me and most of y'all probably know a lot more than I do.
While I was winding up the tangled mess of drop cords, that I had connected
to a portable generator, I had a thought.
The generator was a life saver,but after a week of tripping over cords I
think I may have come up with a better idea.
If I turned off my main breaker as well as the breakers to my large
consumers (AC, Close Drier etc.), would it be safe to connect my portable
generator to my fuse panel.
I think as long as I am careful about what we turn on or plug in, it really
shouldn't be a problem.
One thing I want to be sure of is that there is no potential for back
feeding power into the power lines. The linemen working their butts off ,
have enough...

As a journeyman electrician and a electronics technologist. " dead cap"
or "busted centriflucle switch" no....big.......deal .... take cap and /or
motor to any electrical parts dealer... get off the shelf.

Stu

"WD" wherevernet.com> wrote in message
news:6jojv9F44mecU1@mid.individual.net...

Does anyone know the 3M part number for their 1.5" wide, wax paper backed
very thin adhesive? I have done Google, Dogpile, MS, etc. There are plenty
of tapes shown, none of which match the empty roll I have. (No, it does not
have a part number).

TIA

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"WD" wrote:

Two (2) possibilities.

1) Bad start capacitor.

2) Bad centrifugal switch.

Grainger can do a match up for a replacement capacitor.

Replace cap, if that doesn't solve problem, head to a motor repair
shop.

Replacing a switch is a total PITA.

My guess is you will spend 60%%-70%% of new motor cost to make repairs
with makes which makes repair a tough call.

YMMV

Lew

Oh ya - we just got power back. Gonna start making some sawdust
tonight.

If any centerpoint guys and energy folks down here for the repairs
are reading this, thumbs up to you guys. You have done a superb job
and it is appreciated by everyone!

Mark

Me wrote:

Try the Makita web site. There are three models of the 2023, the 2030N,
the 2030S and the 2030SZ.

Here's the link to the 2030N.

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=600

eselk2003@gmail.com wrote:

As someone said, no rim is no big deal; however, I don't think it would be
good for your application as it is easily scratched. It isn't very good on
solid wood anyway because of the wood movement.

You can get nice clear 18" acrylic plastic but it scratches too. Easily.
Glass wouldn't scratch (normally) but it would be a lousy topping...it would
get dirty on the underside - so would ANY clear sheet layed on top - and is
easily broken. If I were you, I'd take off the 3/4" pine boards and put
laminate on the plywood.

I am looking for some help for the Craftsman 10" Table Saw that I
inherited from my Dad. I remember him buying it used in the early
70's, so my guess is that it is a late 60's early 70's model. I have
looked all over it in search of a part number in hopes of fixing it up
a little but the only thing that I can find is the word "Emerson" and
a part number that no one recognizes on the bottom of the insert. The
insert has a little lever that you lift to install and remove the
insert. The Saw is belt driven, with the motor hanging out back of
the saw, and a V-belt running to a pulley driving the blade. The Tilt
adjust is on the left, the height adjust in on the front, and the
adjustments are made with 4" or so plastic knobs with plastic
handles. There is a angle scale on the front with a metal indicator.
The Top is cast iron and it has one open grid cast iron wing. The
fence is a "T" type with a lever that you push down to lock it in
place, the fence also has a knob for "fine adjustments" that is
spring loaded and engages a track under the metal rail that is
attached to the front of the saw and the wing. There is a nice big
"Craftsman" logo on the front. There are no markings on the motor,
but it is wired for 110V. The on/off switch is mounted under the
table just to the right of the blade on the front of the saw. It is a ...