Jeff Beyer wrote:

I tried to get Version 5.0 ROMS for a TSPP I bought used recently from
Stern. I had Version 3.0 and they said no go. I got mine from good ol'
reliable John Wart Jr. for $10 shipped. They worked great!

Here is a youtube video of the lighted backboard on my AFM. It was
done as per Chris Hutchins' website using the original backboard,
escept I used a scroll saw to cut out the actual outline of the
planets and saucers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sSlo756HXI

The lower right saucer is currently set to flash on the center hurry-
up. Any other suggestions?

Jim

What makes this game so special that it would sell for $5100 on eBay?
See http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250208173367.
Someone apparently messaged the seller and told him it was a sample
game. I'm guessing because of the S following the serial number? So
what? To my eyes it doesn't appear any different than the games on
IPDB. See http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2144&picno=30214

If all it takes is an S after the serial number to increase the sale
price of a Gottlieb pin, I'm picking up an "S" stamp tomorrow.

I picked up a dead Firepower a month ago. I sent the boards out to be
fixed because the repairs were over my head. I got them back and put
them in the game today and the game boots up perfectly, it's in
attract mode and I can get it in test mode, but for the life of me, I
can not get it to coin up with any credits. I've checked the obvious,
I have enough balls in the game and unconnected and reconnected
everything in the wire harness. Any tip/insight on what could be going
wrong? The boards were repaired by someone very reliable that's done a
bunch for me, so I'm next to positive it's not the boards. I'm totally
stumped after playing around with it for the past hour. Any tips would
be appreciated! Thanks, Dan

I am still working on this problem. I have the above mentioned errors.
I have changed out U20, and all three lm339 chips on the opto board.
If I remove all the balls from the trough, the clock works right, and
all short errors (except for the newly found row 1 error) are cleared.
Whenever the balls are in the trough, I get these short errors. Can
anyone help??? by the way, The game played fine for a few games, then
this. Also, I ran the switch column and row test on the cpu board, and
with the diode, the test seems to work fine, calling up all switches
activating in rows and columns according to plugs 107, and 109.
thanks
Dave V

Thank Rob Bell: http://www.robsgameroom.com/FH_PFSWAP.htm
Thank Kerry Stair: http://www.mantisamusements.com/projects/mb5.htm

I used a hand stapler for my pops on AFM and the staples were too long
so here is what I did. Staple the leads. Staple will not go all the
way in. Carefully pull staple out and trim legs to reasonable length.
Place staple in holes you just created. Tap down staple with hammer.
Worked for me.

NEW drill bits.

Good luck.

Hmmmm, well you could do that Rick. At least the repair job would change to a
more predictable mode. Let's see fire deparment comes, axe is wielded, game is
smashed to a collapsed piece of charred and smoking wood. Yep, found the problem
it was that inadequate wood in the game box that was causing the problem.
Anything else?

stevebo

On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 08:46:18 -0800 (PST), Rick Swanson charter.net>
wrote:

I am going to be doing my first playfield replacement with a repro FH.

Any suggestions?

Should I prep the playfield? Wax it? Drill before or after prep?

Tricks to drilling the holes? Use the template? Type of drill bits? I
assume I can use a hand electric drill?

Suggestions on moving the wires?

And those darn staples - what type should I use and size? Can I use a hand
staple gun?

Please let me know your mistakes so I can learn from them.

Thanks.

wonder how much itll go for

http://cgi.ebay.com/Amazing-Pinball-Miniature-BIG-BANG-BAR_W0QQitemZ130194837253...

kind of interesting

I'm working on a Jokerz where every time a lamp in Column 1 or 2 is
supposed to be on, the corresponding lamp in the other column is on
also. All other controlled switches work fine, but all lamps in these
two columns always light in pairs.

Can a bad diode, driver transistor, or 7408 cause entire columns to
become crossed, or is it more likely there is just a short in the
wiring somewhere.

I guess the first thing to do would be to remove the column connector
from the CPU board, go to lamp test, and check if the column 1 and 2
signals are both active at the same time?

Steve Yates