I'm about ready to burn this thing

I discovered that the U relay (First Ball relay) has been fairly mangled at
some time in the past by a "repairman" I've spent some time straightening
the leafs and adjusting the gaps. I've just noticed that the relay has "D"
on top so I'm guessing it is not original. Now my symptoms are that the game
will not start until the U relay is on. If I trip the tilt relay first the
game will start. If I hit the AX relay first the game will start.

Looking from the top of the machine with the coil closest to you Can someone
check their U relay and confirm that
Right hand side is top switch Make Break with the top contact made at rest -
second and third down are open
Left Hand side Top is on - second and third are open

If this is all ok I'm in trouble. The CX relay did have an issue but I still
have the original problem plus now this

AAARGH

Tony

Looks like a proto from the lite blue cab, ad doesn't say cab was
redone. Can't tell if the bldg drops down or not from the pics. What
do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/1989-WILLIAMS-EARTHSHAKER-PINBALL-MACHINE_W0QQitemZ110231631...

nomad

After 2 woodrails - both for 1958 Gottleib pins.

Need a left hand single player rail (for Sunshine)

Need a right hand multi player rail (for Gondolier)

Cheers

Tony pinballoz@yahoo.com

I'm just looking for pinball anywhere in the memphis area I've
checked out 3 movie theatres 2 bowling alleys and 2 arcades (fun fair
arcade and wolf chase mall arcade) and not a single pin in sight. last
place I've seen a pin in operation around here was in a gas station in
Senetobia,MS about 8 years ago (a MM that the trolls got stuck in the
UP position too often)

I have another Very Nice WPC generation DMD driver board available.
Looking for $55 including shipping to Lower 48. HV section has been
rebuilt Tested Working with no errors.

Thanks

Email Matt@smalloceans.com

test

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

I don't have a picture, but I hope they're common enough that my
description helps.

On my Paragon where the pop bumpers go, there are these "nails" (3 per
pop bumper) hammered into the playfield. This is no accident or hack
because they're methodically placed and are symmetrical. The heads of
these "nails" are.. etched... in a sort of criss cross pattern giving
them a rough texture.

What the heck are they?

I'm also hoping to take this damn thing in tomorrow to get clear
coated. Do I have to remove these things?

Thanks,
-Bryon

test, sorry

I'm stumped. I've been working on one of my two JDs, and now that it
is back together it is fully functional *except* the ball lifter motor
keeps running. I'm very confused as to why this is, and have checked
all of the wiring against my other one, although it is apart so I
can't directly compare them. Any clue as to what could be causing
this?

Thanks in advance!

I'm working on a Lethal Weapon 3 that's kicking my behind. What with
the CN8 and CN10 connectors disconnected would cause me to get a
switch 1 plumb tilt always closed? I have confirmed the resistor packs
are good, checked the switch drive transistors, replaced the PIA, 4011
and LS244. When I do connect the CN8 and CN10 and do the switch edge
test, I find that when I activate switch 10 it registers 11, switch 18
I get 19 and so on. I truly am confused and would greatly appreciate
any help and advice.
Thanks in advance.
Rick Pavelko