Re: How much rear axle needed through frame?
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Re: How much rear axle needed through frame?         


Author: russellseaton1
Date: Aug 8, 2008 22:13

On Aug 8, 2:26 pm, still just me yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm running 70's vintage hubs, 7 speed sachs freewheels... needless to
> say, after spacing out for the freewheel and a little chainstay
> clearance, there's not a lot of axle left over to go into the rear
> fork ends.
>
> What's the minimum acceptable amount before the serious danger zone?

Per Mr. Brown you need absolutely zero axle protrusion into the
dropouts.

http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#vertical

I used a more drastic solution: on my Bianchi Osprey. I cut the rear
axle short so that it didsn't protrude past the surfaces of the
locknuts. Thus, only the quick-release skewer went through the
dropouts. Since the skewer is quite a bit thinner than the actual
axle, this gives me considerably more adjustment room.
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Re: How much rear axle needed through frame?         


Author: Tom Sherman
Date: Aug 9, 2008 16:38

russellseaton1@yahoo.com aka Russell Seaton wrote:
> On Aug 8, 2:26 pm, still just me yahoo.com> wrote:
>> I'm running 70's vintage hubs, 7 speed sachs freewheels... needless to
>> say, after spacing out for the freewheel and a little chainstay
>> clearance, there's not a lot of axle left over to go into the rear
>> fork ends.
>>
>> What's the minimum acceptable amount before the serious danger zone?
>
> Per Mr. Brown you need absolutely zero axle protrusion into the
> dropouts.
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#vertical
>
> I used a more drastic solution: on my Bianchi Osprey. I cut the rear
> axle short so that it didsn't protrude past the surfaces of the
> locknuts. Thus, only the quick-release skewer went through the
> dropouts. Since the skewer is quite a bit thinner than the actual
> axle, this gives me considerably more adjustment room.
> ...
Show full article (1.44Kb)
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Re: How much rear axle needed through frame?         


Author: Peter Cole
Date: Aug 9, 2008 17:55

Tom Sherman wrote:
>> If the skewer is properly tightened, the axle is held in place by the
>> friction of the locknuts being pressed against the inside of the
>> dropouts. If this were not the case, horizontal dropouts would not be
>> usable, since the forward pull on the chain creates a larger force
>> against the axle than supporting the rider's weight does....
>
> Not when hitting a bump at speed.

I don't know, by my quick calc's, my 250lb with a granny & long cranks
gives a >4:1 mechanical, so full body weight = 1,000lbf, with pull up
and/or lunging it might approach 1500lbf. A rear wheel carrying 60%% of
my weight (150lb) would have to see 10g
-- not impossible, but both peak
loads might be roughly similar, with typical loads generally higher from
chain loading.
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Re: How much rear axle needed through frame?         


Author: Tom Sherman
Date: Aug 12, 2008 03:11

Peter Cole wrote:
> Tom Sherman wrote:
>
>>> If the skewer is properly tightened, the axle is held in place by the
>>> friction of the locknuts being pressed against the inside of the
>>> dropouts. If this were not the case, horizontal dropouts would not be
>>> usable, since the forward pull on the chain creates a larger force
>>> against the axle than supporting the rider's weight does....
>>
>> Not when hitting a bump at speed.
>
> I don't know, by my quick calc's, my 250lb with a granny & long cranks
> gives a >4:1 mechanical, so full body weight = 1,000lbf, with pull up
> and/or lunging it might approach 1500lbf. A rear wheel carrying 60%% of
> my weight (150lb) would have to see 10g -- not impossible, but both peak
> loads might be roughly similar, with typical loads generally higher...
Show full article (1.25Kb)
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