Hi:

I'm pre-wiring my house, and have a 16/2 homerun wire to each of my doors.
My exterior doors are hung. I have recessed magnetic switches, Senco
1125W-N, that I would like to install now, before the drywall and moldings
are in place.

I can think of a dozen ways to connect the 12 inch lead wires to the cable,
but what is the "proper" way to make the connection?

I have not decided on the actual alarm system yet. Do I need to add a
resister to the ends of the cable where the switches are? If resisters are
needed, can they be connected to the end of the wire inside the control box?
Each cable is connected to only one switch, except the double French door.
I will put a switch in for each door in series.

Seems like information I should be able to find published, but I've searched
the web and many books from the library. I can't find exact instructions on
the correct way to connect the cable to the lead wires.

Thanks,
John

Opps, I mean 2 / 22 wire.

Thanks,
John

"Artistry" fake.com> wrote in message
news:MPVUg.47589$vX5.17643@bignews8.bellsouth.net...

inline...

"Artistry" fake.com> wrote in message
news:MPVUg.47589$vX5.17643@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
| Hi:
|
| I'm pre-wiring my house, and have a 16/2 homerun wire to each of my doors.
| My exterior doors are hung. I have recessed magnetic switches, Senco
| 1125W-N, that I would like to install now, before the drywall and moldings
| are in place.

Glad you amended that in your second post, 'cause you'd hate yourself when
trying to connect 16/2 to a switch in a 3/8" recessed door hole!
Methods to connect:
Solder & Heat Shrink - if you have time, this is the best
Dry B-Beans
Gel filled B-Beans
Where we are we NEVER use tape, the heat makes the tape fall off or move.
Better yet use switches that have micro-screw terminals!

Great!

All my soldering equipment is in storage, hence the need to build a new
house. This FINALLY gives me a justification to purchase one of those
cordless Cold Heat soldering tools.

I personally could not think of anything that would be as reliable, but I
thought that the industry would have adopted a less time consuming method.

I didn

inline...

"Artistry" fake.com> wrote in message
news:P_9Vg.18283$GY5.10460@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
| Great!
|
| All my soldering equipment is in storage, hence the need to build a new
| house. This FINALLY gives me a justification to purchase one of those
| cordless Cold Heat soldering tools.

It would be a good excuse to buy a new tool, but you can solder with a match
or butane lighter if you're careful. But use heatshrink tubing not tape.

|
| I personally could not think of anything that would be as reliable, but I
| thought that the industry would have adopted a less time consuming method.
|
| I didn

Artistry said:

First of all, don't buy the Cold Heat tool. It's a toy. If you insist on
a portable soldering iron, get one that runs on butane. However, if all
you want to do is solder contacts to wire, just buy a disposable butane
lighter, preferably with an adjustable flame. Before you start talking
about cold solder joints, realize that a butane flame is considerably
hotter than the tip of a soldering iron. Plus, a butane lighter fits in
your pocket, and cools down almost instantly. Stagger the splices to
minimize the overall diameter of the splice, i.e., don't put the two
splices side by side.

Well worth the extra few cents paid, for the time saved. That's all I use
now, unless I absolutely need leads now. Trying to fish beanies up into a
3/8" hole above your head with bifocals on is a bitch!!

The ONLY complaint I have is that the ridges don't bite into the wood
enough, so if your 3/8" hole is a "ch" bigger you have a loose contact to
deal with.

"Frank Olson" yoursecuritysource.com> wrote in message
news:aDkVg.95653$1T2.33712@pd7urf2no...
| Crash Gordon wrote:
| > They do if you bend them a little...but screw terminal stubbies are the
way
| > to go.
|
|
| Now you're talkin'!!! GRI rules!

I carry a roll of "33" vinyl electrical tape with me for that problem. usually one wrap will add enough to the diameter to seat in the hole.
--

Crash Gordon wrote:

Tape melts out here, I find that papertape (the blue painter's stuff) works
ok...or a flat wood toothpick.

"Tommy" wrote in message
news:4526515d$0$19714$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
I carry a roll of "33" vinyl electrical tape with me for that problem.
usually one wrap will add enough to the diameter to seat in the hole.
--

Crash Gordon wrote:

When you live in an oven....
--

Crash Gordon wrote: