So a student of mine brings in a Fender P her husband bought from a
co-worker, and wants me to go over it. I don't think he paid much for it
either.

I can tell by the finish checking that it's old, but in great shape
nonetheless. However, the neck and the body clearly do not belong together,
as there is a bit of a gap in the pocket.

I pull the neck off and look for a date - 1964! I checked VERY carefully
with online sources to see if it was a fake, but it looks legit to my
semi-trained eyes.

Then I started dating the hardware, pots, pickguard, etc - 1976-77

Jesus H.

I'm strongly encouraging her to sell it and buy a bunch of nice bases with
the proceeds. Old wood aside, the neck is very chunky and the PUs are those
poorly shielded noisy 70's models. Plus the thing weighs about as much as
she does.

Question is, would it be better i.e. more profitable to sell it as is, or
break it up into neck and body auctions?

Hi All,
Anyone on here from The Springs? I am moving back after 15 years and
am curious about the live music scene there. Any help would be
appreciated!
Cc

Ok, so I'm in this old farts rock band. We get together once a week to
rehearse (read: play tunes a couple times and move on to the next. We're
sort of the poster children for John's recent rant here!). Last week out of
nowhere a conversation happens about what we need to be doing and even
though I'm the FNG, I pipe up with the observation that we need to be more
critical about our product. If you're playing covers there's only two
options - cover them recognizably well, or clearly make them your own - and
we're not doing either right now. (Even in this town, if you're gonna get
work you've got to be good.) This goes around and around and we end up
recognizing that we need to record our rehearsals and let that brutally
honest feedback inform what we need to work on. (I suspect...

Prob'ly don't wanna mention that to Jonathan right now...

"SotR" ssm.com> writes:

Sweet. Congrats on the move. Sounds like it's a total win/win!

--

Long story short(ish):
I take a weekend of gigs I really don't want to do because I had some
other dates fall through so I feel pressure to keep the calendar full. I
know I am getting screwed on the money end, even haggling with the guy he's
known for screwing the band.
The gig is about seven hundred miles from my house, or a good 45
minutes, whatever comes first. I leave and wind up running a little late
but it's a gig where one piano player hires a bunch of subs to play stuff
nobody knows so if I'm not there early enough to compare charts, who cares?
Well I get there and set up and notice two things; there's no sax OR guitar
(usually we have at least one when I sub with this guy) and two, nobody else
is ready to go and my watch says it's 10 minutes until the downbeat. The
piano player comes up and casually mentions that they decided to push the
time back just for today so we won't start for another 40 minutes or so.
The gig is just piano, drums, bass and two singers, one is a decent
singer who doesn't know more than two lines of any song we do, and the other
is the pianists wife who turns everything into Japanese Karaoke. Even
worse, she speaks with a heavy accent between songs and during solos saying
things like "We thank you for coming out tonight, we play for you variety of
music, we play for you jazz, disco, funk, we play for you dance music, is ...

I have a Behringer BXL1800A amp that has no sound at all and am trying
to fix it. Presently I think it has a bad power power supply.
Behringer's web site makes it clear they will not provide schematics.
Does anyone know where I can get a schematic for a BXL1800A?

Fender makes schematics readily available. It reminds me of why I
prefer Fender.

Tony

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/

Those are some interesting designs.

This one:
http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/Omni15.html

is 70 pounds (ugh!) but "...only 26.5 inches wide, 30 inches
high and 17 inches deep..."

Alternate is 20X20X39 in. Still 1X15.

The good news is that they run as high as 105 dB efficiency. if
you need 130 dB, that would only cost 300ish watts. The usual 98 dB
cab would cost *1625* watts for the same figure.

They aren't cheap, assembled. Quoted parts cost is $350 "as little
as"....

And if you wanna go arfing nuts....
http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/T48.html

Anybody ever seen one in the wild? Just curious.

I own a 1x15 combo and a 4x8 extension cab, neither of which has its
original speaker(s). If it's not too big a deal, I'm curious what the
actual efficiency is for each. I don't imagine the efficiency figures
and/or frequency response of the drivers matters much once you've
installed them in a real-world cab.

Short of acquiring all the gear necessary to do this, how big a deal
is it to figure this out? Is there some kind of local shop (anything
from a luthier to a Radio Shack!) that does this kind of evaluation?

While I'm at it, some kind of Theil-Small chart would be groovy, too,
but it's not like I really *need* any of this shit

So far this summer I have blown 4 15-inch speakers in a Peavey 1516
enclosure with a 15-inch Black Widow and two 8 inch mids. (The mids are
fine) I have re-basketed the speaker each time with a Peavey 4-ohm basket.
The cab sounded great and volume was not excessive. I have blown two of
them with a G&K 1001RB and two with an old, but venerable Peavey Mark VIII.
Are Black Widows this frail or is it possible there is some other
cause...amp??

Suppose I put an 8 ohm basket on next time to reduce current draw...might
this help.

All expertise is appreciated....this is getting expensive. Maybe I should
pop in my 8 ohm EV?

Tom
ginkel@mchsi..com