Re: sweet
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Re: sweet         

Group: alt.drugs.pot · Group Profile
Author: Mycoloteur
Date: Jan 6, 2008 00:11

On Jan 5, 10:01 pm, Shadowphreak wrote:
> Mycoloteur wrote:
>
>
>
>> Well, they have improved a lot. The volcano clones I am using/making (~
>> $100US) for example work super. They are more efficient than bongs by
>> potentially a very large measure depending on how good your smoking
>> technique is with the bong and either way are healthier than any other
>> method. I can feel the difference clearly between when I smoke and
>> when I vape, and I can clearly see the difference in efficiency.
>
>> Love and Light
>
> Would you be willing to share instructions for making said clones?
>
> -Shadowphreak-

yeah, I have once b4. The short version since I have to go find what I
have.

purchase
1 makita hg100 commercial heat gun with electronic heat control, I
like the makita HG1100. (80$)
1 3/4 inch threaded brass coupling
1 heavy duty aluminum foil (don't worry its not in the hot air path)
med screen set for volcano vaporizer (5$ on ebay)
1 dremel tool bit. Its just a stick with a screw in the end for about
4$ at home depot.
some large turkey size roasting bags 3$
1 bottle of "sport" water with the squeeze top.

Modify the heat gun, as follows.
(you can use the mentioned makita model without modification, but only
just barely. There are others that will only work with the mod and may
possibly be others that will work with out the mod..) But you should
nearly always be best off with the mod.

FOR THE MAKITA HG1100, and the nearly identical model from black and
decker:
purchase a 10k linear taper potentiometer. Ideally heavy type with a
full size shaft and all not the various small, micro, submicro sized
ones. They are only a few bucks at radioshack.

Solder 3 -4 inches of wire to two fhe terminals

Disassemble the heat gun carefully. Locate the temp control
potentiometer. Identify the center lead, and heat it and lift it out
of the circuit board. Solder one of the wires on your new
potentiometer to the solder pad where the center lead was, and the
other wire to the now lifted center lead. (ideally use some heat
shrink to seal up things on the lifted center lead. Drill a hole in
the side of the heat gun's enclosure and bolt the new control in Find
a location that won't impinge any existing circutry. Reassembled the
heat gum.

This creates a second "fine tuning" control. So, you will use the
original temp dial to select the gross temp range, and then dial in
the proper temp with the second.

Test and calibrate it ideally with a thermometer. Set the fine control
to around its middle, and set the coarse control around 2. Continue to
very carefully adjust the coarse control down (back up as needed), and
using the thermometer get as close to around 390f as you can. (this
last part is different for the black and decker, so make sure you
independently understand what you are doing before attempting it.
Otherwise get the makita.

Use the foil to create a tube that fits over the end of the heat gun
and provides a supporting gasket for the brass coupling.

Buy the coupling new and wash it thoroughly to remove and oil
residues.

Insert a "bottom screen" into the lower 1/4 of the brass coupling. If
you flex it, it will fit right into the threads and be held well in
place.

Take the dremel bit and unscrew it. Insert the screw threw the hole in
the center of the top screen and into the dremel bit and tighten it.
This provides a handle for inserting and removing the top screen from
the coupling (i.e., the vaporizing chamber)

Cut the neck off the water bottle. leaving the threads and half an
inch or so of the neck.

Use rubber bands to attach the bag to the neck of the bottle make sure
you can remove and reattach the top.

Stand the heat gun up and insert the coupling (screen down) into the
gasket and resting centered on top of the heat guns output.

Note the foil doesn't really need to seal all that well because the
coupling is the same size as the exit port and weighs enough. the
gasket is really just to keep the coupling sitting on top of the heat
gun output port.

With the vap chamber attached turn the makita on low and confirm the
temp reaches 400 degrees. Most thermometers take a while to stabilize,
so be sure to be patient. Wait a few minutes to get a good reading.
Once its set, the gun actually heats up in just a second or two.

Double check that your temp is still around 400

Add some weed and or well fluffed hash to the chamber

holding the dremel bit screen assembly by the bit, insert it in the
chamber top sealing in the weed.

Remove the cover from the bag

hold the bag onto the top and turn the gun on low.

Watch it fill.

Turn off the gun, and while holding the bag closed, reattach the
bottle's sport cover/valve.

Open the valve and take a hit. Close the valve. Ad infinitum.

;-)

Note that I am leaving out the fine tuning, its largely a matter of
taste. Just use the fine tuning control to vary the temp and
experiment. Depending on how much weed you put in the chamber, how
good it is, how well its chopped etc, you will need to adjust the temp
some. Hash requires slightly higher temps.

Dam i have some pics, but I lost the password to the google pics
thing. I will try to reupload some

Love and Light
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