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"willbill" <trek@worldwide.net> wrote >> Variable DC wallwarts are perfect for getting just the right amount of >> airflow vs. noise. >> >> Like this: >> http://americanenvy.com/Special1/Special1.html > the price is right, but what i really want is an > A/C unit without doing the A/C D/C conversion > > i was able to buy those in LA swap meets/computer > shows for roughly $6-9 @ 8/9 years     

Group: alt.tv.tech.hdtv · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in alt.tv.tech.hdtv
Author: Tantalust
Date: Aug 15, 2007 16:58

And the result is ... see back at the Buffalo adaptor thread... S "spamlet" <spam.morespam@spamola.invalid> wrote in message news:YlQLh.12325$7l1.3072@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net... Thanks again Jeff and Dan, That clears up a few things, and reassures me me or my meter weren't going mad after all! Here in the UK, things are not as cheap as they are out your way, so I will refrain
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Thanks again Jeff and Dan, That clears up a few things, and reassures me me or my meter weren't going mad after all! Here in the UK, things are not as cheap as they are out your way, so I will refrain from buying a dedicated new adapter just yet, as the adapter from my defunct D-Link router is correct for the USB hub bar the plug - which I will now swap over, and hopefully then prove     

Group: alt.tv.tech.hdtv · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in alt.tv.tech.hdtv
Author: Tantalust
Date: Aug 15, 2007 16:53

On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 08:33:46 -0500, "Geezer" <gquNOSPAMale@adelphia.net> wrote: "Lovguitar" <lovguitar@aol.com> wrote in message news:1166243538.868449.30010@f1g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... Hello, I bought an old ZW off ebay and have cleaned it up. It works nicely except for the whistle on the left hand side. I cleaned the contacts and re did a couple of flaky looking solder
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jsdemar wrote: > "Fuse"? I use an autoreset thermal breaker (automotive type > with spade terminals). A 10A part will kick out in ~15 secs at > 20A and reset in ~20 seconds. It will handle 40A for a few seconds > without kicking out. Impossible to fry the internal wiring with one > of these and also more convenient than changing a fuse. If you're > nervous about lighting bigger clusters     

Group: alt.internet.wireless · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in alt.internet.wireless
Author: Steve H
Date: Mar 20, 2007 14:00

"Fuse"? I use an autoreset thermal breaker (automotive type with spade terminals). A 10A part will kick out in ~15 secs at 20A and reset in ~20 seconds. It will handle 40A for a few seconds without kicking out. Impossible to fry the internal wiring with one of these and also more convenient than changing a fuse. If you're nervous about lighting bigger clusters, then use a 20A part.
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> First, as Tim asked, are you on a GFCI, if not stop right now and buy > a GFCI breaker. It is code and also common sense. ground fault intalled. > The next thing is you need to be sure that element base is bonded to > the other spa equipment and grounded with a #8 solid copper wire. > Also you need to bond any other metal within 5' of the spa with a #8 > solid. Omega will sell you a real     

Group: alt.internet.wireless · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in alt.internet.wireless
Author: spamlet
Date: Mar 20, 2007 05:22

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Group: rec.models.railroad · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in rec.models.railroad
Author: Whodunnit
Date: Dec 16, 2006 16:01

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Group: rec.models.railroad · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in rec.models.railroad
Author: Jon Miller
Date: Dec 16, 2006 10:52

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Group: rec.models.railroad · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in rec.models.railroad
Author: Whodunnit
Date: Dec 16, 2006 06:18

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Group: rec.models.rockets · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in rec.models.rockets
Author: the notorious t-e-d
Date: Dec 12, 2006 20:24

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Group: rec.models.rockets · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in rec.models.rockets
Author: jsdemar
Date: Dec 12, 2006 19:27

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Group: alt.engineering.electrical · Group Profile · Search for Hosfelt in alt.engineering.electrical
Author: diddlywhoot
Date: Dec 5, 2006 13:56

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