"Glenn Ashmore" <gashmore@cox.net> wrote in news:XAQbk.17837$oY2.1757@newsfe21.lga: Even 12V nominal halogen bulbs will loose much of their expected life if run at battery charging voltages. Some "smart" regulators even have a "halogen protection" setting that limit charging voltage expressly for that purpose. Anyone dumb enough to run a halogen light bulb for anything
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On Mar 14, 9:05 pm, Andre Jute <fiul...@yahoo.com> wrote: 3. Forget a dynopowered rear light of any kind. Even the best are dangerous to your health. The expensive BUMM ones are not watertight and the best of the rest, made by Basta (I have one they custom make for Gazelle but it is basically just an aesthetic variation of their best rear lamp) and by Spanninga (their Ultra; I have
On Mar 14, 8:36 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" <x...@y.Invalid> wrote: What light bulbs/LED emitters are you powering with your Sturmey-Archer Dynohub? Front? Back? I did the thing with the bridge rectifier to convert it's output to DC - figuring I'd drive some LED emitters to get max light. But I'm having problems with the voltage regulator part. I get the circuit tuned to put
On Sun, 31 Dec 2006 00:18:40 +0100, Zak <jute@zak.invalid> wrote: krw wrote: Halogens are more (about 3x more) efficient than standard tungsten bulbs, so the room should be cooler. The fixtures can get hot though. The halogens in standard bulb envelopes aren't hotter than the standard bulbs. Normal incandescent: 100 w, 1200 lm Incandescent Krypton: 100 w, 1420 lm
